Origin Of The Name Shui Xian (水仙)

The words Shui Xian (水仙) commonly translate to “narcissus” or “daffodil” in Chinese. Alternatively, a “xian” (仙) is the word for a Daoist immortal and “shui” (水) the word for water, so “water immortal” is another possible translation. One historical account of the name comes from the "Chronicle of Ou Ning County” (瓯宁县志).  During the Daoguang period (1820-1850) of the Qing Dynasty, Shui Xian tea (水仙茶) was originally called Zhuxian tea (祝仙茶). The name “Zhuxian” refers to a cave, located in present day Xiaohu Town (今小湖镇) in Fujian Province, which was called Zhu Taoxian Cave (祝桃仙洞). As the story goes, a woodcutter planted the first Shui Xian tea trees in front of this cave. In the local dialect, “zhu” (祝) and “shui” (水) are pronounced the same, so the name “Zhuxian” eventually became “Shuixian.” 

The name Shui Xian 水仙 is also associated with a legend. During the Kangxi Dynasty (1654 – 1722) of the Qing Dynasty, a famous person from Fujian Province found a large tea tree next to a temple. Because this tea tree was suppressed by the earth wall of the temple it took on an interesting form with several twisted and deformed trunks, sort of like a “penjing” (盆景) tree (i.e. bonsai tree). The man thought that the trunk was interesting, so he dug it out and took it home to plant. He continued to train the tree into an interesting form, and the resulting tea was fragrant and high-quality. The word "water” 水 in the Hokkien dialect of Fujian is also used to mean “beautiful,” so the tea harvested from the beautiful Xian Shan (仙山) Mountain is called "Shui Xian", reminiscent of the daffodils that bloom in early spring. 

It is also noteworthy that Southern Fujian oolongs (闽南乌龙) are known for their aroma as well as their fresh, clear, and sweet taste, whereas the Northern Fujian oolongs (闽北乌龙) are known for the mellow quality of their tea liquor and also tend to be a bit darker due to a higher level of oxidation. As a result, there is a popular saying "southern fragrant northern water " (南香北水) to distinguish northern and southern Fujian oolongs. The most representative of Wuyi rock tea sweetness is Wuyi Shui Xian tea. This is also a reason why Wuyi Shui Xian tea is so popular. 

Shui Xian Growing Regions 

Shui Xian tea is found in all of the tea farms in the Wuyi Mountains. The Shui Xian from the “Three Pits and Two streams” (三坑两涧) in the Zhengyan region of Wuyi is considered the most authentic. The Lao Cong “Old Bush” (or “Old Tree”) Shui Xian (老枞水仙) of Hui Yuan Keng (慧苑坑) is particularly noteworthy. “Old Tree” Lao Cong (老枞) teas from Wuyi are mainly based on Shui Xian tea plants. 

Varieties of Shui Xian 

1. Wuyi Shui Xian 武夷水仙 - Refers generally to non-old tree Shui Xian that is planted outside the Zhengyan Mountain area and within the administrative jurisdiction of the Wuyi Mountains. These are widely distributed in various townships in Wuyi Mountain and are the largest component of Wuyi rock tea. Of these, the highest quality Shui Xian is said to be grown higher up on mountains and in the rocky tea gardens. 

2. Zhengyan Shui Xian 正岩水仙 - Refers to the Shui Xian planted in the Zhengyan production area. The most famous Zhengyan Shui Xian comes from the higher-mountain areas of the “Horse Head Rock” Ma Tou Yan (马头岩), Hui Yuan Keng (慧苑坑), and “Water Curtain Cave” Shui Lian Dong (水帘洞) areas. Many of the sought-after Shui Xian varieties come from trees that are over 100 years old. Additionally, the superior soil and climatic conditions of the Zhengyan Mountain area are what make these Shui Xian teas so highly desired. 

3. Lao Cong Shui Xian 老枞水仙 - Generally refers to the Shui Xian tea that comes from trees that are more than 80 or 100 years old. The older the tree, the better the quality. The old tree “lao cong” Shui Xian from the Zhengyan production area is most sought-after, particularly the teas from “Horse Head Rock” Ma Tou Yan (马头岩), Hui Yuan Keng (慧苑坑), “Water Curtain Cave” Shui Lian Dong (水帘洞), Wu San Di (吴三地), and high-mountain regions.

Gao Cong and Lao Cong Shui Xian 普通水仙对比高丛水仙和 老丛水仙 

Shui Xian can be classified into three categories: “Old Bush” or “Old Tree” Lao Cong (老丛水仙), “High Bush/Tree” Gao Cong (高丛水仙), and finally just ordinary Shui Xian. These are distinguished mostly by the age of the trees, the size of the trees, and the resulting tea’s flavors as detailed below.

Age Of The Tea Trees

• Ordinary Shui Xian: tea trees are less than 30 years old

• Gao Cong Shui Xian: tea trees are between 30 and 80 years old

• Lao Cong Shui Xian: tea trees are not less than 80 years old

Assuming that the Lao Cong is calculated according to the dividing line of 80 years, then the Shui Xian tea plant planted before 1941 can be called the Lao Cong Shui Xian. 

Tea Tree Size 

In the absence of tea tree pruning, the height of tea trees for ordinary Shui Xian, Gao Shui Xian, and Old Bush Shui Xian are different.

• Ordinary Shui Xian tea is a semi-arborvitae large-leaf tea tree, and the height will change as the tea plant grows. Ordinary Shui Xian tea trees are not tall, but short like shrubs.

• The Gao Shui Xian tea tree is slightly taller, about the same height as an adult human.

• The tallest is the Old Bush Shui Xian, which, when not pruned, can grow to the height of a single-story building.

Bush Flavor 丛味

Shuixian tea has a special “cong wei” (丛味) which means "bush flavor." It has a woody aroma, a comfortable, rustic feel that is woody, floral, and elegant. 

• Shui Xian that comes from younger trees (less than 30 years old) will not have this “bush flavor.”

• Gao Cong Shui Xian (高丛水仙) tastes like an orchid, and along with the orchid aroma there is a little bit of "bush flavor,” but it is very subtle and requires a careful tasting.

• Old Bush Shui Xian (老丛水仙) tastes more domineering and blunt, and the aroma of orchids will be accompanied by a strong "bush flavor."

Cong Wei (枞味) “Bush Fragrance” Is Common, But Hua Xiang (花香) “Floral Fragrance” Is Hard To Find

The “Lao Cong” (老丛) “Old Bush” variety of Shui Xian is generally considered the highest grade and has some unique characteristics. One characteristic is the so-called “cong wei” (枞味) or “bush fragrance,” which is said to be fairly common. Lao Cong Shui Xian with a “hua xiang” (花香) or “floral fragrance,” on the other hand, is said to be harder to come by. 

The type of fragrance is said to be the result of a variety of factors including the plant varietal, the age of the tea trees, the environment (terroir), and the craftsmanship employed during the tea processing. Different locations will have different soil compositions that will produce different types of “bush fragrance.” Lao Cong Shui Xian grown in rocky areas is sometimes conducive to floral fragrance. Light and humidity also play an important role. When the tea trees have sufficient light they are more likely to have the floral fragrance as compared to tea trees grown in pits. Too many rainy days will also result in less of a floral fragrance. The older the tea tree gets the less likely it is to retain the floral fragrance, which is another reason it is so hard to find this type of fragrance in a “Lao Cong” tea together with the other sought-after qualities that this tea is known for. Often tea enthusiasts will mistake a good Lao Cong Shui Xian that has the floral fragrance for a tea from younger trees. Lastly, an important factor is the skill employed by the tea farmers in processing the tea. It is relatively easy to retain the “bush fragrance” with a bit of skill during the processing, but to retain the floral fragrance is more difficult and a true test of the skill of the tea master. To retain the floral fragrance the drying process needs to be smooth and even, the level of oxidation needs to be strictly controlled (not too early, not too excessive), and the tea should be processed so that it archives the slight red-colored tea leaf edges. 

Lao Cong Shui Xian with a good “bush fragrance” is already a great product, highly appreciated by tea drinkers. Often though, the Lao Cong Shui Xian that has both a good “bush fragrance” together with the “floral fragrance” is what scores highest in competitions. 

Cōng (枞) vs Cóng (丛) In “Lao Cong Shui Xian”

The Chinese language has many homophonous words that refer to different Chinese characters and may use different tones, or other times may sound identical. Use of the word Cōng (枞) in the name “Lao Cong Shui Xian” (Old Bush Shui Xian tea) has become common in the tea industry, but strictly speaking it is not the “cong” that was traditionally used. The word cōng (枞) (similar word but different tone) refers to a type of tree similar to a pine or cypress tree and might be translated as “fir.” Cóng (丛), on the other hand, means “cluster,” “clump,” “thicket,” or “grove,” and refers to densely growing grass, bushes, shrubs, or small trees. Wuyi rock tea trees belong to this small tree-type category, and so the word cóng (丛) is technically the correct one. 

Luo Shengcai (罗盛财), deputy director of the Wuyi Mountain Agricultural Committee and author of the book “The Famous Wuyi Rock Tea Collection'' (武夷岩茶名丛录), clarified that historical documents never used the word cóng (丛) to refer to Wuyi rock teas and suggests we should respect the original usage. However, he does acknowledge that the word cōng (枞) has become so commonly used that it is more or less conventionally established, and so it is not totally wrong, but just not the traditionally correct word for the name. Wuyi tea expert Chen DeHua (陈德华) says about the new “cong” that has come into common use: “Initially the world has no roads, but the more people walk the more roads come into existence.” (世上本没有路，走的人多了也便成了路).

Chun 醇

Shui Xian tea has been known as a good example of a quality called “chun” (醇). The Old Bush Shui Xian (老丛水仙) has the best chun, with the Gao Cong Shui Xian (高丛水仙) and Ordinary Shui Xian (普通水仙) both having respectively less. What is chun (醇)?  Chun is a word that originally referred to the flavor of a quality aged rice wine, but also became a way to describe a tea in which the various notes of the flavor profile combined harmoniously, resulting in a complex yet coherent taste that is sophisticated and nuanced. With a good Shui Xian that has chun, the tea liquor enters the mouth and exhibits a unique mouthfeel. After swallowing, it seems that a delicate layer is attached to the mouth and coats the tongue. So the mellowness of Shui Xian Tea is as silky and rich as tasting fine chocolate.

 Wuyi Mountain Region

The Wuyi Mountains are located at the junction of Jiangxi and Northwest Fujian provinces in China. The region has a mild climate with an average temperature of 18-18.5°C, a long frost-free period, high humidity, and abundant rainfall. The mountains are shrouded in mist and fog all year round. 

The most famous production area is the Zhengyan Mountain area (正岩茶区) which is located within the Wuyi Mountain Scenic Area (武夷山旅游风景区内). Since ancient times, the best tea of Wuyi has been said to come from the Zhengyan region. Particularly, the Zhengyan tea coming from the “Three Pits and Two streams” (三坑两涧) region is said to be the highest quality tea and includes tea from many high-altitude locations. The “Three Pits” are Hui Yuan Keng (慧苑坑), Nui Lan Keng (牛栏坑), Da Keng Kou (大坑口) while the “Two Streams” are Liu Xiang Jian (流香涧), and Wu Yuan Jian (悟源涧). The soil in the Zhengyan area contains a lot of sand and gravel creating soil with high permeability. The soil has high potassium and manganese content and moderate acidity.  Here the daily temperature variation is small and the area is protected from cold winter winds. 

Teas that are produced in the Qing Shi Yan (青狮岩), Bi Shi Yan (碧石岩), Ma Tou Yan (马头岩), Shi Zi Kou (狮子口), and Jiu Qu Xi (九曲溪) areas are usually known as Ban Yan Cha (半岩茶), literally meaning “half rock tea.” The tea from the Ban Yan region is lower altitude and not as sought-after as the Zhengyan tea. The soil in the Ban Yan region has low potassium content, high aluminum content, and high acidity. 

Yan Yun 嚴韵

A signature feature of Wuyi Rock Tea is Yan Yun (嚴韵) which is often translated as “rock rhyme” or “mountain rhythm,” but perhaps is best understood as the essence of the tea. Often associated with the tea’s taste, it might be best thought of in a classical Chinese sense as the tea drinker’s experience of the tea as a sort of resonance with the mountains from which it came. Therefore it is more related to terroir than to characteristics resulting from processing or the tea variety itself, although of course one cannot be separated from the joint influence of all of these factors. 

The origin of the term comes from a poem written in the eighteenth century by Emperor Qianlong (乾隆) called “Brewing Tea on a Winter Night” (冬夜烹茶). It is said that the gravely, sandy soil in Wuyi gives the tea a “rock bone flower fragrance” (骨花香岩). The “rock bones” (岩骨) are one of the main characteristics associated with yan yun - a feeling of the rock/mountain “cha qi” (茶氣), or tea energy, deep in your bones. Tea masters recognize the other main characteristics of yan yun as: 

• Xiang (香) “fragrance”: a clean and pure fragrance that is not sharp or too heavy, sometimes reminiscent of orchids. 

• Qing (清) “clear, pure”: the taste is refreshing and smooth, the tea liquor has a bright and clear color.

• Gan (甘) “sweet”: the tea has a mellow sweet taste which is delicious with a sweet aftertaste, it is not overly bitter. 

• Huo (活) “lively”: the tea is vibrant and offers a unique feeling and tea drinking experience. 

Ming Cong vs Pin Zhong

Wuyi tea can be divided into two categories: Ming Cong (名枞) and Pin Zhong (品种). The Ming Cong teas are traditional cultivars that have long histories and usually have some sort of legend or story associated with their name. Popular Ming Cong teas from Wuyi Mountain are Rou Gui (肉桂), Qi Dan (奇丹), Bei Dou (北斗), Shui Xian (水仙), Tie Lou Han (铁罗汉), Shui Jin Gui (水金龟), Ban Tian Yao (半天腰), and Bai Ji Guan (白鸡冠). Ming Cong teas have a strong cha qi (茶氣) or “tea energy,” and more body than Pin Zhong teas. They are usually baked to a medium or high degree. 

Pin Zhong (品种) teas are varieties that were imported from other regions and/or hybridized in the 90s. Popular Pin Zhong teas include Huang Guan Yin (黄观音), Huang Mei Gui (黄玫瑰), Jin Mu Dan (金牡丹), Fo Shou (佛手), and Bai Rui Xiang (白瑞香), to name a few. Pin Zhong teas have various unique aromas and are usually roasted light or medium to preserve the aroma. 

Wuyi Rock Tea Production Process

1. Selective Picking 开面采摘

Wuyi tea is best picked by experienced tea farmers. When picking, it is best to choose “one-tip three-leaf” (一芽三叶) or “one-tip four-leaf” (一芽四叶), rather than picking “one-tip two-leaf” (一芽两叶), because the latter leaves are too tender and easily break which would affect the resulting tea quality. Small-leaf varieties (小叶种) and medium-leaf (中叶种) varieties are the best for picking, whereas large-leaf varieties (大叶种) are considered inferior and generally avoided by tea growers.

2. Sun Fixation 晒青

Tea picking work is usually completed around 11:30 in the morning. After the picking, the tea leaves are transported in bamboo baskets to the tea factory to be withered in the sun (日光萎凋). This means that the tea leaves, after being picked, are usually set out in the sun to oxidize and reduce in water content. After the water partly evaporates using sun withering, the leaves will give off a nice scent.

Usually set in the sun around 1 pm, if the sun is strong, the tea only needs to be left out to dry until 6-7 pm. Afterward, they can be spread out on bamboo sieves to cool down for 20- 30 minutes.

3. Laying and Tossing 做青/摇青

This step refers to the alternating processes of laying (or setting) and tossing.

Laying - the tea leaves are first put into a bamboo barrel machine and are heated with either bamboo or fruitwood charcoal to reduce the leaf moisture by about 10% making the leaves softer and the branches/stems less likely to fall off.

The heating needs to be adjusted according to the freshness of the tea leaves. Generally, this step is complete after around 8-10 hours.

After heating, the lid is open to let it stand so the tea can oxidize and cool down. This needs to be repeated two to three times before starting to toss.

Tossing - after heating and letting it stand to oxidize, the basket lid is closed and the baskets are rotated. Tossing allows the tea leaves to oxidize evenly. In the process of turning, the color of the edge of the tea leaves becomes red, and the color in the middle remains unchanged.

4. Stir Fixation 炒青

Continue to stir fry the leaves to reduce the moisture by another 20%. The temperature is around 176-232°F, and this step continues for about 7-10 minutes.

5. Rolling 揉捻

After stirring the tea leaves are rolled. The rolling gives the tea leaves their unique finished appearance. This process takes about 3-7 minutes.

6. Primary Roasting 初培

After the tea leaves are rolled into strands, they are spread out evenly. This process takes about 5-10 minutes.

7. Screening 筛分

The tea leaves are then screened, and the bad yellow flakes, branches, and stems will be removed, leaving only the good parts.

8. Re-Roasting 复培

The tea leaves are left to sit for about 15 days to remove harshness before they are re-roasted. The subsequent roastings are said to make the yan yun quality of the tea thicker. The various degrees of roasting can be divided into low fire, medium fire, and high fire. Low fire has the lightest flavor, medium fire is moderate, and high fire is the heaviest. Most people choose to drink tea that has been roasted at medium fire.