Liu Bao Tea and Guangdong Tea Houses

The consumption of Liu Bao tea can be traced back to the Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties in China, giving it a history of more than 1,500 years. During the Jiaqing period (1796-1820) of the Qing Dynasty, the town of Liu Bao (六堡镇) in Cangwu County (currently Wuzhou 苍梧县), Guangxi began to produce Liu Bao tea, which entered the list of famous Chinese teas for its special betel nut flavor.

The spread of Liu Bao tea began along the Pearl River Basin in China (珠江流域), which is the fourth longest river in China, with a total length of 2,400 kilometers. Originally, it referred to the section of the river from Guangzhou to the mouth of the sea, and later became the general name for the Xijiang (西江), Beijiang (北江), Dongjiang (东江) as well as the rivers of the Pearl River Delta (珠江). Liu Bao first spread to this area due to the fact that Guangdong people loved tea so much that they were practically addicted to it and consumed it so frequently. As far back as the Tang Dynasty, the famous poet Cao Song (曹松) transplanted tea seeds to Xiqiao Mountain (西樵山) in the region by the South China Sea, and Guangdong's tea culture began. By the end of the Ming Dynasty, many tea stalls appeared in the streets and alleys. The teas sold contained a variety of different herbal roots and dried leaves boiled down to form a thirst-quenching beverage.

During the reign of Xianfeng in the Qing Dynasty (1875), there appeared a kind of eatery called “Yili Guan” (一厘馆) in Foshan (佛山), Guangdong Province. The setup was very simple yet very popular with the local people, and usually involved a wooden table with four benches for guests who were served tea and simple pastries. With the increase in demand for food and drink, the “Erli Guan” (二厘馆) was developed, usually with a wooden signboard with the word “Cha” (Tea 茶) or “Cha Hua” (茶话) hanging in front of the store, which was meant to signify a place for people to have tea (茶) and chat (话). The food at an “Erli Guan” was more sophisticated than at a “Yili Guan,” and to attract customers, they created their own motto “yi zhong liang jian” (一盅两件), meaning “one cup, two pieces.”

In the Qing Dynasty, during the Tongzhi and Guangxu years, as Guangdong tea culture expanded, the small “Cha Hua” changed to a “Cha Ju” (茶居 tea house), which implied a place for people to spend their time and relax. Later, with the emergence of the Cha Ju, “tea drinking” as a pastime became more common, and the habit of drinking tea in tea houses gradually took shape among the people of Guangdong. Literati and scholars of the time often gathered here. After the tea house business continued to grow, they gradually changed their names to the now familiar “Cha Lou” (茶楼), meaning “eating and tea drinking place with stairs.” The only difference was in the city of Guangzhou, which did not have any “Erli Guan,” and just started with the “Cha Ju” from the very beginning. The earliest and first tea house in Guangzhou was opened in the Qing Dynasty during the reign of the Tongzhi Emperor, called “Shang Cha Ju” (上茶居). It was not until the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty that the “Shang Cha Ju” was changed to “Shang Cha Lou” (上茶楼), and then all the “Ju” (居) in Guangzhou were changed to “Lou” (楼).

All the way up until the Second World War, the prestigious Liu Bao tea has always been respected and popular throughout the Chinese diaspora. Due to easy shipping and low transportation costs, the main sales were in Hong Kong, Macao, and Southeast Asia up through the early 1950s. The Hong Kong market is still dominant and supplied a lot of foreign commerce and gave local farmers a major source of income. A quote about the Liu Bao tea found in Wuzhou appeared in the Tongzhi version of the “Cangwu County Records”(苍梧县志): “茶产多贤乡六堡，味厚隔宿不变,” which translates to, “The tea is produced in Duoxian Township, and the thick flavor of Liu Bao tea remains unchanged no matter where you go.”

The Environment of the Tea Production Areas

Wuzhou City (梧州市) is to the east of Guangdong, Yulin (玉林) is to the south, Guigang (贵港) is to the west, and Hezhou (贺州) and Guilin (桂林) are to the north. Xunjiang River (浔江) and Guijiang River (桂江) converge in the city and become Xijiang River (西江). The confluence of the three rivers has a yellow-green color, so it is called “Yuanyang River” (鸳鸯江). 

Wuzhou is where more than 85% of the water flows in Guangxi, and so has the name of “Guangxi Water Gateway” (广西水上门户). Cangwu County (苍梧县) is located north of the Tropic of Cancer, has an average annual temperature of 21.2 °C, and an annual rainfall of 1500 millimeters. It belongs to the extension of the Dagui Mountain Range (大桂山脉) in Guidong, which extends from Tangping (塘平) to Buyi (不倚), and from Siliu (四柳) to Gaojian (高枧). These villages and towns, from Wudong (梧垌) to Hekou (合口) are characterized by peaks with altitudes of 1,000 to 1,500 meters above sea level and large slopes. Tea is mostly planted in the hillsides or canyons, as far as 3 to 10 kilometers away from the villages, with streams running through the forested area, beautiful mountain scenery, short sunshine hours, and year-round cloudiness. Liu Bao tea is a shrub type middle-leaf species with spreading tree vigor. The branches are dense and there are four types according to the color of the buds. That is, green seedling tea accounts for 60%, purple bud tea accounts for 20%, large white leaf tea accounts for 5%, and rice broken tea accounts for 15%. Green seedling tea has the highest yield as well as the best quality.

The Authentic Shantou taste of Liu Bao Tea (山头正味)

The term “shantou” 山头, meaning “hilltop,” does not refer to a specific mountain, but to a certain type of growing landscape, which may be a few rolling hills, a large chunk of tea hill several kilometers in circumference, or just a sloping piece of land. Tea made in different tea-producing regions and on different hills have their own unique flavor characteristics, which are often referred to as “hilltop flavor” (shan tou wei 山头味) by tea enthusiasts. As with Pu'er tea, the various tea producing areas have different characteristics. According to the geographical environment: Liu Bao tea production areas can be divided into the southeast area (东南片区), Liu Bao River area (六堡河片区), Wutong River area (梧桐河片区), and the northwest area (西北片区) of the four industrial areas. In the northwest, there are four mountains that produce Liu Bao tea, which are historically famous: 

• “Heishi Tea” (黑石茶) produced in the area around Heishi under the Heishi Mountain (黑石山) in Tangping (塘坪); 

• Buyi (不倚)，Gongzhou (恭州) Dailong Mountain’s (带龙山) “Gongzhou Tea”;

• “Xiadou tea” (虾斗茶) produced in the area around Siliu (四柳) and Lichong (理冲) under Shuangji Mountain Peak (双髻山顶);

• “Ludi tea” (芦荻茶) produced in the Ludi area under Mt. Shuangji, Mo dian Mountain Peak (墨殿顶), San Zuo Mountain Peak (三座顶).

1. Black Stone Tea/Heishi Tea (黑石茶)

Geographic features: This mountain region features a lot of black stone and mud, and the water supplied by nearby streams is ample, so the tea trees get plenty of water, and the tea leaves are big and thick. The tea planted in the nearby villages which rely on the mountain range (which stretches on and on) can also be called “Heishi Tea.” “Heishi Zheng Shan” is also known as the place where the ancestors of Liu Bao grew tea. According to research, the original species of Liu Bao in the town all came from the king tea tree in the crevices at the top of the mountain.

Aroma and Flavor: Mostly handmade tea, its most outstanding characteristics are the strong tea flavor, a fierce and domineering tea aroma, long lasting “tea rhyme,” amber tea soup color, and a significant and unique “rock rhyme” (uniquely salty and sweet taste). Aged black stone tea is more likely to have the betel nut flavor and aroma.

2. Gongzhou Tea (恭州茶)

Geographic features: “Gongzhou” is the ancient name of the village now known as “Buyi village” (不倚村). According to records: The tea produced in Gongzhou is located in high mountains and ridges, with trees covering the sky. The tea trees planted have sufficient water. The high mountains have a lot of fog, and the sun cannot reach them, so there is little evaporation. Therefore, the tea leaves are thick and large, and the flavor is strong and fragrant. It is the place that produces the most red and purple bud tea in the whole Liu Bao tea mountain area.

Aroma and Flavor: Zhengshan Gongzhou tea (正山恭州茶) is characterized by its mellow taste to strong taste and rich layers of tea aroma. This Liu Bao Purple Bud tea, due to active substances in the tea leaf, has the characteristic that the more it ages, the more fragrant it becomes, and has a higher probability of producing a betel nut flavor under the right environment and conditions.

3. Ludi Tea (芦荻茶）

Geographic features: Siliu Village (四柳村) was originally called “Ludi Village” (芦荻村), because there is a small river with many reeds alongside it (lu 芦 means “reed”) beside the village. The locals used to refer to the reeds there as “Ludi Bamboo” (芦荻竹), and also call the tea produced there “Ludi Tea.” Ludi tea is equally as famous as Heishi and Gongzhou tea. Siliu Village is surrounded by mountains on all sides, with beautiful scenery and gravelly soil, which is especially suitable for the growth of tea trees.

Aroma and Flavor: Ludi tea is one of the best types of Liu Bao. The Huopang (获傍), Huowei (获尾) and Langqing (蓝青) areas of Ludi tea are notably of very good quality. Zhengshan Ludi tea (正山芦荻茶) is characterized by its strong and pure tea flavor. It has an aroma that is broad and strong, summarized by three words: strong (yan hou 酽厚), pure (chun hou 纯厚), and broad (kuan hou 宽厚).

4.Xiadou Tea (虾斗茶)

Geographic features: “Xiadou” translates literally to “shrimp bucket.” The tea comes from Lichong Village (理冲村) which is located in the northwest of Liu Bao Town (六堡镇), about 4 kilometers away from the seat of the town government and north of the Shuangji mountains (elevation 757m). The quality of this tea is excellent, and so it has a very good reputation among tea lovers. The characteristics of this tea are a soft flavor with a strong and elegant aroma. It is delicate and yet resistant to brewing.

Aroma and Flavor: The Qing Dynasty Tongzhi version of the “Cangwu County Records” (苍梧县志) has it recorded: “Xiadou tea, its colors and flavors are all present, but slightly thinner” (虾斗茶，色香味俱住，唯稍薄耳). The ancients used “colors and flavors are all present” as the conclusion of the evaluation, therefore giving it a high evaluation. The “slightly thinner” mentioned in the article is in comparison to the “thick” Heishi tea, Ludi tea, and Gongzhou tea. So “slightly thinner” is understood from this perspective and can also be interpreted as a delicate and elegant flavor with a refreshing texture. Therefore, this description of “slightly thinner” is not a disadvantage, just a difference in flavor.

5.Tangping Tea (塘坪茶)

Geographic features: This tea is from Tangping Village (塘坪村), located 10 kilometers northwest of the Liu Bao Township government site at the confluence of the Buyi River (不倚河) and the Shanping River (山坪河). The village covers a total area of 11 square kilometers. Tangping Village tea plantation is located in the high mountains, the air is humid, the temperature difference between day and night is large, and there are often plenty of clouds and fog. Tea trees grow more in the fog than in other places due to the moisture, so the tea buds and tea leaves are particularly fat. The quality is also particularly good, mellow and thick, resistant to brewing and soaking.

Aroma and Flavor: Tangping tea style is more diverse. Tangping's original species of Liu Bao tea has a great flavor and strong aroma that shows up quickly after aging. The taste of the tea is sweet and smooth, the aroma is elegant, and it is considered a top-grade tea. 

6. Shanping Tea (山坪茶)

Geographic features: Shanping Village (山坪村) is located on the east side of Zhaoqing Peak (肇庆顶). There are still many tea tree remains from the many Ming (明) and Qing (清) dynasties among the mountains and forests. The area is a treasure trove of original Liu Bao Tea species. With an altitude of more than 900 meters, the village is surrounded by clouds and mist all year round. Alpine clouds and mist produce good tea, meaning that the tea grown on the mountain with a certain height is of good quality, because the sunlight diffuses through the water mist, which can better promote the growth of tea trees. The unique geographical environment of Shanping Village has formed the unique quality of tea with a thick flavor.

Aroma and Flavor: Shanping is a village of the “Yao” (瑶族) ethnic minority in China. The local people used to call the tea produced in Shanping village “Yao tea” (瑶茶). Yao tea is sacred to the local people, they think it is the most holy and health-promoting tea. In Shanping, there is a proverb: “No matter how high the clouds and fog are, they can't reach the top of Zhaoqing, but they always swirl in my Shanping village” (云雾再高飘不过肇庆顶，总在我山坪村里打转转). Shanping tea is smooth, high quality, and resistant to brewing. The tea is high in aroma and rich in taste and is not considered inferior to Tangping tea.

7. Shizhai Tea (狮寨茶)

Geographic features: “Guangxi General Records” (广西通志) for Liu Bao tea history has this record: “Liu Bao tea is in Cangwu. Tea production is flourishing, with Liu Bao and Wubao (五堡) in Duoxian Township being the most popular.” In ancient times, from what is recorded in this book, Wubao was also a tea area producing high-quality Liu Bao tea. Historically, Shizhai was also called “Wubao.” The territory around Rongding Peak (蓉顶山) (1016 meters above sea level) belongs to the alpine region of Wuzhou (梧州). Its rolling mountains and peaks are under the special light conditions of sunshine in the morning and high mountain shade in the afternoon, which makes it a natural place for tea.

Aroma and Flavor: There are tea plants in front and back of people's houses in Shizhai, but there are only two or three sporadic wild tea plants. These natural teas have not been cultivated and domesticated by humans and are not widely used. They have thick leaves and roots, smooth tea properties and deep aroma. The tea has a long, sweet aftertaste, and its brewing resistance is two to three times higher than that of ordinary tea. This tea is rare and is not to be missed!

8. Wudong Tea (梧峒茶)

Geographic features: “Wudong River District” (梧桐河区) includes Daning (大宁), Gaojian (高枧), and Wudong (梧峒). Historically, it is also a large production area of Liu Bao tea. In this area, Wutong River flows from the end of Daning and Jiuchong (九冲), and there are two high mountains, Chongyuan Peak (冲源顶) and Piaoshan Peak (瞟山顶), which are the largest production areas of Liu Bao tea.

Aroma and Flavor: Wudong tea is characterized by a mellow taste, a soft and fine tea soup, and a sweet tea flavor that leads to sweetness experienced in the throat. Its tea aroma is unique. After aging, Wudong Tea, Daning Tea, and Gaojian Tea change color more easily than Liu Bao tea from other producing areas, and the tea flavor changes slightly faster.

Ancient & Modern Liu Bao Tea (古法与现代六堡)

Process 工艺: “Ancient Process” (Gufa 古法), as the name suggests, is a traditional tea-making process from ancient times. It refers to the initial production process of Liu Bao tea, which is now defined as unprocessed tea (maocha 毛茶), picked throughout the year in the town of Liu Bao. Spring, summer, autumn and winter teas are picked in Liu Bao Town all year round and fall into this category. Another production process is the double-steaming double-pressure process (双蒸双压). The difference is that, compared to the former it goes through a series of processes such as initial steaming (初蒸) - fermentation (发酵) - re-steaming (复蒸) - pressure bucket (压箩) before leaving the factory.  Since it has been steamed and pressed twice, it is called "double steaming and double pressing."

Raw materials 原料: The raw materials of Liu Bao tea made by traditional craftsmanship come from Liu Bao Town, and are referred to as “Liu Bao group species” (Liu Bao qunti zhong 六堡群体种). The raw materials of Liu Bao tea produced by modern technology include, in addition to Liu Bao group species, Guangxi large and medium-leaf species (广西大中叶种), Guiqing species (桂青种), etc.

Finished Tea Color 成色:  Due to the lighter fermentation, the finished tea produced by traditional craftsmanship will appear greenish-brown or yellowish-brown for unaged tea. As the years of storage increase, the color will continue to deepen. The finished tea produced by modern technology is dark brown.

Tea Soup Color 汤色: The traditional tea soup for unaged tea is mainly light yellow and apricot yellow. For tea produced with the use of modern technology, the tea soup is mainly bright red to a rich red color.

Taste 口感: When made using traditional techniques, the taste of the tea soup is slightly bitter, but has a good aftertaste, rich aroma, and overall refreshing taste. However, the effect of tea on a person’s body (according to Chinese medical theory) is cold in nature and is not suitable for people with weak stomachs. It would therefore not be suitable for long-term drinking. By contrast, tea produced using modern techniques has better palatability, a mellow taste, and overall a more mild effect, and is therefore suitable for most people to drink.

“Tea Cellar” (Cha Jiao 茶窖) Used to Create High Quality Liu Bao Tea

Wine has the process of cellar storage, which is similarly found in the production process of modern Liu Bao tea. Generally speaking, other black teas (hei cha) can be marketed directly after production, but after fermentation Liu Bao tea has to be moved to a specific environment to age for at least 180 days before it can leave the factory. Some manufacturers will choose a high-quality “tea cellar” to age the tea, and this process is called “cellar storage,” which is what makes Liu Bao tea special compared to other black teas. Common tea cellars include cave cellars, wooden cellars, ceramic cellars, and brick cellars.

For tea cellars, the focus is on the “cellar” (jiao 窖). It is not only a concept of space, but also has various requirements to meet standards for its geographical location, inner structure, temperature and humidity, etc.

For example: 

(1) A suitable natural environment and unique geographical location are prerequisites for quality tea cellars. 

(2) Tea cellar temperature and humidity in all seasons is relatively stable. 

The ventilation system is developed using scientific analysis and can be artificially controlled. This is not only conducive to the attachment and reproduction of microorganisms, but also conducive to promoting the transformation of tea leaves. In particular, some old tea cellars have stored tea for decades and accumulated a large number of beneficial microorganisms, which are valuable resources that cannot be copied. These can lay a good foundation for the later aging of Liu Bao tea.

(3) Cellar storage is different from ordinary tea warehouses. It is not just simply about storing tea in a physical space. It also requires a lot of manpower and material resources to be managed, and it is necessary to scientifically adjust the location and quantity of tea storage in a timely manner based on the age of the tea, transformation effects, and external climatic changes.

If the same tea is placed in a tea cellar or an ordinary warehouse, the quality will be very different after a few years. Because cellaring will occupy a lot of capital and time costs for tea companies, there are not many Liu Bao teas that can be cellared, especially those that have been cellared for a long time. The longer they are cellared, the rarer they become. When the tea has been aged in old warehouses for more than ten years, it has been fully transformed and is of better quality. In addition, the quantity of output is generally small, and it is regarded as a fine product by collectors. Tea products like this one, which have been stored in old warehouses for a long time, have always been a hot commodity in tea circles.

Ancient Tea Drinking Style (古老的饮茶方式)

A phrase recorded in “Tongjun’s Medicine Collection” (Tongjun Caiyao Lu [桐君采药录]) of the Northern and Southern Dynasties period (南北朝时期) of China has, “而交广最重，客来先设，乃加以香芼辈. 而交广最重,” which means “Friendship is the most important. When guests come, they will be prepared for first, and then treat them with fine incense.” The Cangwu (苍梧) area at that time belonged to Wuzhou (梧州), and Jiaoguang (交广) also referred to the ancient Cangwu area. The phrase “guests come first” (客来先设) refers to the hospitality of serving drinks to guests when they come to visit. It can be inferred from this that drinking tea at that time had become a folk etiquette. “乃加以香芼”: this statement shows that tea at that time was also not a mere beverage, but a porridge-like food made with ginger, cinnamon and “mào 芼”, a kind of water plant or wild vegetable. This practice gradually became extinct at the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, but in the homes of the Yao people in the mountains of Liu Bao Town (today Cangwu County), the hospitality of a thousand years ago is still upheld. When guests come, the hosts use tea oil to fry tea leaves, then add water to boil into oil tea water, and add green onions, cilantro, peanuts, fried soybeans and other condiments. The result looks like a bowl of porridge. This oil tea porridge can be considered both as a drink and as a meal. A number of ancient books recorded the diversity of the Chinese way of preparing and drinking tea. 

Tea Culture of The 24 Solar Terms (二十四节气茶文化)

According to Chinese tea culture, different tea varieties are recommended according to different seasonal “solar terms” observed throughout the year. The twenty-four solar terms are divided into four seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter, with six solar terms in each season. These include:  the Beginning of Spring (立春), Rain Water (雨水), the Waking of Insects (惊蛰), the Spring Equinox (春分), Pure Brightness (清明), Grain Rain (谷雨), the Beginning of Summer (立夏), Lesser Fullness of Grain (小满), Grain in Beard (芒种), the Summer Solstice (夏至), Lesser Heat (小暑), Greater Heat (大暑), the Beginning of Autumn (立秋), the End of Heat (处暑), White Dew (白露), the Autumn Equinox (秋分), Cold Dew (寒露), Frost's Descent (霜降), the Beginning of Winter (立冬), Lesser Snow (小雪), Greater Snow (大雪), the Winter Solstice (冬至), Lesser Cold (小寒), and Greater Cold (大寒).

Lesser Cold 小寒 and Liu Bao Tea

Guangxi Liu Bao Tea is recommended for the part of the year around the Lesser Cold solar term. 

Ancient people believed that at the “Lesser Cold” solar point of the year (usually anywhere from January 5 - 19) cold air has accumulated for a long time, yet the degree of cold has not yet reached its extreme point, so it is called Lesser Cold (Xiaohan).

At this time, it is appropriate to drink old Liu Bao tea. After deep fermentation, Liu Bao tea has a bright red color and mellow taste. Supporting the “digestive fire” and “removing dampness” is important at this time of year, according to Chinese medicine. Liu Bao can be drunk after a full meal to aid digestion, or on an empty stomach to clear the stomach.

After fermentation, polyphenols are oxidized and irritating substances are reduced, which can gently drive away cold and benefit the body.